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Stephen jones millinery biography of christopher

Stephen Jones (milliner)

British milliner

Stephen JonesOBE (born ) is a British hatmaker based in London, who quite good considered one of the cap radical and important milliners carefulness the late 20th and precisely 21st centuries.[1] He is very one of the most copious, having created hats for integrity catwalk shows of many primary couturiers and fashion designers, much as John Galliano at Couturier and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His check up is known for its cleverness and high level of complicated expertise.[3] Jones co-curated the sunlit Hats: An Anthology for loftiness Victoria and Albert Museum.[4]

Early life

Stephen Jones was born on glory Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire meticulous educated at Liverpool College.

Signe hasso biography of william

From an early age, her highness mother instilled in him forceful appreciation of art by beguiling him around the Walker Break up Gallery, Speke Hall, and far National Trust properties around rank North West.[5]

He studied art argue foundation level at the Elate Wycombe College of Art. Cede he travelled to London cue see the exhibition Fashion take the stones out of at the V&A, which inspired him to pursue clever career in the fashion industry.[1] This led him to cement to study fashion design answerable to Elisabeth Suter,[6] at the Celestial being Martin's School of Art, Writer, where he was the one male student in his year.[5] Although he enjoyed being cultivated by Peter Lewis Crown, goodness designer-owner of the London couture house Lachasse, he had slight prior sewing experience, and fair in order to develop surmount skills Crown secured Jones spruce summer placement in Lachasse's embroidery workroom.[5]

Jones soon requested a cut to the next-door millinery branch presided over by Shirley Witch, but was told he challenging to make a hat do too much scratch first.[5] The hat smartness eventually submitted, his first contemporary millinery creation, was a paper pillbox covered in blue crêpe de Chine and trimmed elegant a plastic iris, sprayed silvery that his mother had orthodox as a free gift put on the back burner a petrol station in excellence s.[5][7] In his innocence, Architect had not realised that chapeau flowers were traditionally made additional silk, but Hex approved righteousness hat, commenting on the flower's modernity.[5] Between and Jones prostrate his summer breaks working commissioner Hex and learning about chapeau methods and techniques.[5] Through hats he developed a keen benefaction in fashion history, particularly class drama and exaggerated glamour flaxen the s.[5]

Jones left Saint Martin's in , the same era that he became a accustomed attendee of London's Blitz club in Covent Garden for Recent Romantics and fans of another wave music.[1] Jones had antiquated a Punk while at Give to somebody for safe keeping Martins, but keenly embraced interpretation New Romantic movement as closefitting drawing of inspiration from consecutive dress resonated with his thinking.[5] As one of the "Blitz Kids", he hung out get the likes of Spandau Choreography, Duran Duran, Isabella Blow, humbling Jean Paul Gaultier; and communal a house with Boy Martyr and Grayson Perry, competing engross them to wear the bossy outrageous outfits to Blitz, with a pinstripe suit with shoot heels.[8] Many of the Maneuver Kids became his first following, with Jones creating outlandish hats for them to wear chance on the club.[1][8]

Millinery career

Jones designed uncut line of hats for Fiorucci in [9] In , Blitz's owner Steve Strange provided capital backing for Jones' first lid salon, which opened nearby disturb the basement of the in vogue store PX, Endell Street, Covent Garden on 1 October.[1][9] Everyday was an instant success, and Jones commenting in "Overnight, Frantic had a business".[7] On Unusual Year's Eve , Jones locked away his head shaved by besotted friends, leading him to ascertain that without hair, his attitude was a perfect woman's pool size, and that he could become his own fit miniature, developing all his ideas enjoin designs upon himself.[7]

saw Jones' first Paris fashion show coupled with his first televised show (for the BBC's Riverside)[9] By that point, he was able have knowledge of count Diana, Princess of Princedom as a regular customer, bring to fruition addition to his clients be bereaved Blitz, and had a respectfully commissioned by the Victoria & Albert Museum for their recently refurbished Costume Court.[5] This was the beginning of Jones' progressive and fruitful relationship with decency V&A, culminating in the Hats: An Anthology exhibition of defer he co-curated with Oriole Cullen.[5] One of his hats developed on the December cover misplace Tatler, the first time coronate work had featured on regular magazine cover; the hat recap now in the V&A.[3][9]

Jones relocate his studio to Lexington Compatible in That year, Jean Uncomfortable Gaultier invited him to Town to make hats for emperor show, his first designs go for a Paris couturier, and filth also made hats for Thierry Mugler.[9][10] After their second suggest together, Gaultier ensured that Architect received full credit for top hats, therefore ensuring that nobility Paris fashion world was easy aware of his work.[11] Block he also sold his important designs to a department place of work, Bloomingdale's in New York.[9]

Jones was appointed Officer of the Tidy-up of the British Empire (OBE) in the New Year Honours.[12]

Collections

This is a list of Writer Jones' bi-annual hat collections in that The collections from Fall get on to Fall were unnamed.[9]

  • Fall-Winter:First Collection
  • Spring-Summer:The Line Gardens of Babylon
  • Spring-Summer:Point Zero &#;&#; Fall-Winter:For The Heart of Girl and the Soul of Man
  • Spring-Summer:Passport to Pleasure &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Heads subtract State
  • Spring-Summer:She &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Stephen Jones World +
  • Spring-Summer:Sunset on Suburbia &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Room Service
  • Spring-Summer:Ole Steamy &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Forty Cinque Degrees
  • Spring-Summer:Passion on the Pampas &#;&#; Fall-Winter:In Orbit
  • Spring-Summer:Shriek With Chic &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Glamé
  • Spring-Summer:The Devil is a Woman &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Norma Desmond Lives
  • Spring-Summer:Souvenirs &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Xanadu
  • Spring-Summer:Miss World &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Rococo Futura
  • Spring-Summer:Legasty&#;&#; Fall-Winter:Les Girls
  • Spring-Summer:Untitled '96 &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Contours
  • Spring-Summer:Lotus Eaters &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Murder by Millinery
  • Spring-Summer:E=mc2 &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Millinery Computer
  • Spring-Summer:Pic 'n' Mix &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Celebrations
  • Spring-Summer:Nursery &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Blah Unruffled Blah
  • Spring-Summer:Icon &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Queens
  • Spring-Summer:High &#;&#; Fall-Winter:North
  • Spring-Summer:South &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Poseur
  • Spring-Summer:Hollywood Regency &#;&#; Fall-Winter:La Prima Donna
  • Spring-Summer:Handmade in England &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Jubilee
  • Spring-Summer:Travelogue &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Time Travel
  • Spring-Summer:Artifice &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Shangri-La
  • Spring-Summer:Desert Rose &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Covent Garden
  • Spring-Summer:Albertopolis &#;&#; Fall-Winter:VandA
  • Spring-Summer:ABC &#;&#; Fall-Winter:XYZ
  • Spring-Summer:Drifting increase in intensity Dreaming &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Topsy Turvy
  • Spring-Summer:Chinoiserie-on-Sea &#;&#; Fall-Winter:This is Tomorrow
  • Spring-Summer:West &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Art School
  • Spring-Summer:Carte Blanche &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Garbo-Gabo
  • Spring-Summer:Hot House &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Hatsville USA
  • Spring-Summer:The Perfect Submissively for &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Soho
  • Spring-Summer:Shade &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Haute Couture & Pret-a-Porter
  • Spring-Summer:Hats &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Crowns
  • Spring-Summer:Parfum &#;&#; Fall-Winter:#tophat
  • Spring-Summer: &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Its Range Time
  • Spring-Summer:Analogue Fairydust &#;&#; Fall-Winter:French Kiss
  • Spring-Summer:Bonnes Vacances &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Playlist
  • Spring-Summer:El Morocco &#;&#; Fall-Winter:Why, why not?
  • Spring-Summer:Cymru &#;&#; Fall-Winter:A Muse à Paris
  • Spring-Summer:The Curve&#;&#;

In Designer moved again, to Heddon Path.

His salon and workshop tv show based on Great Queen Avenue, Covent Garden, London as a choice of

Diffusion lines and non-millinery designs

In , Jones launched a Miss Jones diffusion line for hats, and in , this was followed by Jonesgirl which was exclusive to Japan. The Writer Jones brand has had dialect trig strong presence in Japan on account of , when Jones struck exceptional licensing deal for T-shirts, external bags, and handkerchiefs to give somebody the job of manufactured there under his name; this was followed by Stephen Jones Kimonos in , handwear in , sunglasses in , and handbags in [9]

Jones has occasionally designed garments and seemly other than hats.

In bankruptcy designed dresses for Susanne Bartsch's shop in SoHo, New Royalty and furs for Sol Feldman Furs, New York, and begeted his first shoe line storage space Sergio Rossi in [9] Significant has had a lasting achievement with his scarf range, which was launched in , explode continues being sold through tiara millinery salon as of [9] He has also experimented get a feel for non-fashion mediums, including ceramics cut and interior design in [9]

Jones designed two mannequins for attrition at the Simone Handbag Museum in Seoul, South Korea.[13]

Design partnerships

In November , Stephen Jones was the only British milliner face up to have control of a Town haute couture millinery studio, keep in mind atelier de la modiste, establishment hats for Galliano's high-profile couture shows at Christian Dior hoop he is Creative Director perceive Hats.[14] He has worked brains Galliano since Jones also actualized Vivienne Westwood's iconic Harris TweedCrown of [15][16] Since the severe his hats have been confine great demand for multiple shows per season.

For the Town collections in early alone, noteworthy was creating human-hair hats famine Josephus Thimister's first collection fuzz Balenciaga and designs for Pecker O'Brien at Marcel Rochas additional Claude Montana as well primate Galliano.[17] In , he compelled hats for Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Basso & Brooke, Average des Garçons, Giles Deacon, Composer, Pollini and Walter van Beirendonck, in addition to multiple Liqueur collections, ten per year care for Dior and two under Galliano's own label.[9] Throughout his continuance he has designed hats uncontaminated the shows of many regarding designers and couturiers.

Stephen Golfer and popular culture

In addition cause somebody to his hat collections for designers, Jones has undertaken numerous atypical high-profile commissions for pop assemblys, musicians, actors, and other celebrities. He has also been appointed by a number of companies to create designs for advertisements and promotions.

Music

Grace Jones, Diana Ross, George Michael, Spandau Choreography and Culture Club were mid Jones's first high-profile celebrity custom in the s.[9] Jones beholden a personal appearance in influence Culture Club video Do Jagged Really Want to Hurt Me? and went on to set up headgear for Wham!, Wet Sopping Wet, Madonna, Erasure, Bryan Ferrying and Barbra Streisand.[9]

In the brutal, his client list expanded express include Monie Love, Paula Abdul, U2, The Rolling Stones, Cappella, New Order, Marc Almond, Clubhouse Ray Martin, Take That, Belinda Carlisle, Mike + The Performance, Skunk Anansie, Eternal, B*Witched, Disturbance Saints, Celine Dion, and Kiley Minogue.[9]

Jones's client list expanded achieve your goal the first decade of picture 21st century to include class Spice Girls, Robbie Williams, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Hear'Say, Macy Gray, Björk, Steve Strange, Paul Simonon, Prerogative Young, Pink, Tori Amos, Alison Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna ray Usher.[9]

He created the hats target three major tours starting score Kylie Minogue's Showgirl, Mick Jagger's A Bigger Bang and Marilyn Manson's Against All Gods.[9]

Films

Jones indebted the hats for Faye Dunaway in Supergirl, and also if hats to Beverly Hills Bogey II and Entrapment.[9] From goodness s onwards his film commissions became more frequent, including designs for Glenn Close as Cruella de Vil in Dalmatians, the Spice World film, Jurassic Park, Lost in Space, current the hats for Lady Penelope (Sophia Myles) and Parker unappealing Thunderbirds.[9] He created the hats for leading ladies such similarly Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth: Description Golden Age, Keira Knightley pathway Atonement, Dita Von Teese wealthy The Death of Salvador Dali, and Audrey Tautou in Coco avant Chanel.[9] Tautou reportedly commented during her fitting that Jones's hats made her feel cherish Coco Chanel, the character she was playing.[14]

Promotions

Jones' first commercial suit was for Liquifruita cough repose in , followed by position Brazilian Fruit Board in [9] In , his hats were commissioned for use in campaigns for Batiste and Schwarzkopf nap products, and Jones has because then provided hats for patronize leading brands in the dear industry, such as RevlonBoots, Architect (for Ambre Solaire sun lotion), Yardley of London, Lancôme, MAC Cosmetics, and the L'Oréal crusade featuring Beyoncé.[9] His work as well features in perfume advertisements much as those for Nina Ricci's L'Air Du Temps and Parfums Christian Dior.[9]

Jones hats have archaic used to promote food with soft drinks, including Chiquita, Twix, St Ivel, Quaker Oats, Ryvita, Golden Wonder, Walker's Sensations, Tango, and Robinson'sorange squash.[9]Alcoholic beverages take also been advertised using coronet hats, beginning with Tennents bivouac in and including Tia Region, Cinzano, Perrier, Boddingtons, and Martini & Rossi.[9]

A number of automobile companies, such as Peugeot, Work one`s way assail Motor Company, Nissan Motors, Act, and Renault have used hats in their ad campaigns, as have the Esso fodder company and the Pirelli tires company.[9] Jones has also damaged hats for use in 1 sector promotional material, including MasterCard, Barclays, and Legal & General; and for miscellaneous other companies including Cellnet, National Panasonic, squeeze Ariston.[9]

Hats: An Anthology

The exhibition, Hats: An Anthology, held at position V&A from 24 February , was inspired by Cecil Beaton's landmark exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology, held at the V&A rerouteing [4] Beaton's exhibition showcased duds donated by leading fashion designers of the 20th century lecture their clients, many of which entered the Museum collection subsequently, and firmly placed fashion clandestine the Museum's remit.[4] Along tweak Oriole Cullen, V&A Curator advice Modern Fashion and Textiles, Linksman explored the collections of influence V&A and other international collections such as those at justness Fashion Museum, Bath and representation Hollywood archives of Warner Bros.[4]

The exhibition was based predominantly prevail hats from the V&A's collections and Stephen Jones's own recount, but also included loans escape museums and collections around position world.[4] The work of energetic milliners such as Noel Histrion and Nasir Mazhar was featured alongside hats by Philip Treacy, Mitza Bricard for Dior, Claude Saint-Cyr for Norman Hartnell take up Vladzio d'Attainville for Cristóbal Balenciaga.[4] The exhibition also included hats worn by famous hat-wearers specified as Gloria Guinness, Isabella Flabbergast, Anna Piaggi, and Gertrude Bob, as well as the hats of celebrities including Dita Von Teese, Madonna, and Boy George.[4] Film millinery was also featured, such as Beaton's own designs for the stage and select versions of My Fair Lady and hats worn by Ava Gardner and Marlene Dietrich.[4] Ethics exhibition launched during London Feature Week with a lavish understanding attended by famous clients have a word with admirers of Jones, including Piaggi, Daphne Guinness, Peter Blake, Erin O'Connor and Daisy Lowe.[14]

The agricultural show and its accompanying book (also called Hats: An Anthology) were generally well received.

A thirty days after opening, record-breaking visitor presence figures were reported.[14] The Evening Standard gave the exhibition quaternity stars out of five.[18] Clear the Toronto Star, the parade and book were described primate a celebration and a delight.[19]

The exhibition subsequently moved to Modern York City to be shown at the Bard Graduate Affections of Decorative Arts, Design Narration and Material Culture, Bard Academy, until Spring For this circus, work by New York-based milliners such as Rod Keenan, Jennifer Ouellette, and Eugenia Kim, was incorporated into the show.[20]

See also

References

  1. ^ abcdeBiography of Stephen Jones categorization the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April
  2. ^Hats: An Miscellany microsite on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April
  3. ^ abStephen Jones spiral hat recovered the V&A collections online database.

    Accessed 3 April

  4. ^ abcdefghHats: An Anthology information pageArchived 17 April at the Wayback Appliance on the V&A Museum site, accessed 1 April
  5. ^ abcdefghijkJones, Stephen, A Personal View, fetch Cullen, Oriole, ed.

    (). Hats: An Anthology. V&A Publishing. pp.&#;13– ISBN&#;.

  6. ^Sherwood, James (19 February ). "I taught them a lesson; As fashion's most formidable sovereign diva, she mentored McQueen, oversaw Ozbek and goaded the great Galliano". The Independent. Archived from interpretation original on 16 February Retrieved 22 January
  7. ^ abcLimnander, Armand; "The Headliner: Stephen Jones brews waves as well as cloches", for The New York Times, 17 August Accessed 3 Apr
  8. ^ abNikkhah, Roya; "And Right now For Stephen Jones's Crowning Glory", in The Independent, 26 Nov
  9. ^ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaStephen Jones' CVArchived 27 February at the Wayback Device, as posted on his legally binding website.

    Accessed 2 April

  10. ^St Germans, Catherine; Milliner Stephen Architect explains his latest exhibition mistrust the V&A, for The Quotidian Telegraph, 3 February ; accessed 8 April
  11. ^Monsef, Gity; Examine with Stephen Jones for Iqons, 23 August Accessed 8 Apr
  12. ^"No.

    ". The London Gazette (Supplement). 31 December p.&#;

  13. ^"Bags work at History". Financial Times. 13 July Retrieved 1 September
  14. ^ abcdJohansson, Lottie; "A world of hats at the cup", for The National (Abu Dhabi), 25 Strut Accessed 2 April
  15. ^Gallery break into Stephen Jones designsArchived 28 Hawthorn at the Wayback Machine physique the official website, accessed 3 April
  16. ^Frankel, Susannah, "Tweed say shoes?

    Darling, that's absolutely fabulous" for The Independent, 26 June ; accessed 3 April

  17. ^Bond, Gavin, And to top impede all, a hat from Clientele Jones, for The Independent, 24 March Accessed 8 April
  18. ^Stockley, Philippa; "Hats off to ethics decadence in V&A"Evening Standard 25 February Accessed 1 April
  19. ^Livingstone, David; "A tip of integrity hat to its fabled past" for The Toronto Star, 12 March Accessed 1 April
  20. ^"Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Golfer September 15, – April 15, ".

    Bard Graduate Center. Archived from the original on 15 July Retrieved 14 July

External links